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I might be able to provide a video showing kind of the overview sure. Happy to answer any questions you have in the meantime.

@@ray5961 that'd be sick! One quick follow up: I'm considering hooking up a fuel pressure gauge via the Cold-Start injector, but you put yours just after the filter. I'd be curious to hear your thought process behind that decision

@@adamsmiddy Yeah I installed mine off the back of the the connection which comes off the fuel filter (kinda back there where the transmission bell housing is). The only logic was to tuck it back there out of the way of things. You could definitely tap off the cold-start injection stuff, it's just that the fittings there are smaller and more delicate and sometimes to remove the upper plenum it requires unhooking those. Originally I was gonna plumb it off the banjo fitting on the front of the fuel rail, but I didn't want it constantly in the way up front basically. Also, having it back there off the back side of the fuel filter makes running the wires for the sender a bit cleaner. I can't remember if I bought a fitting from Summit Racing or if I drilled and tapped the existing banjo bolt for 1/8 NPT. I wanna say I drilled my own, but I can't remember for sure. I think they sell ones already made on Summit.

If you mean the ECU from Toyota for their Turbo 22RE in 1987, I couldn't really tell you much - but I would assume the software has some provisions for retarding the timing relative to boost and also a different fuel map based on probably monitoring boost pressures off the manifold. I don't have any experience with it, so couldn't say. Gabe at SNP might have more info though.

The high idle stuff is controlled by the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) - I have some videos which explain it on the channel but basically engine coolant (once it heats up) causes the valve to shut down and lower the idle. If the idle stays high, check the small hoses running to and from the IAC valve (just under the throttle body) and see if both hoses are heating up. If not, there could be a coolant blockage some place in there, which is preventing normal operation.

Yes, injectors 1 and 3 fire in unison and then 2 and 4 fire together; the injector wires merge in the harness under there - so the lead for 1 & 3 have a single wire running back to the ECU and same goes for 2 & 4. If you are seeing injector #1 working but not #3, then either there is an electrical connector issue @ #3 or the injector itself is stuck. Did you happen to flow test the injectors before installing them or at least hit them all w/ 12 volts to see if they were all clicking on and off?

He doesn’t have ac. I’m sure there videos out there

I'm in the process of recharging the A/C on my girlfriend's Lexus ES300, but my truck doesn't have A/C. ChrisFix has a great video on recharging A/C systems, but as far as rebuilding the one on the 1989-95 pickup, I wouldn't wish that job on anyone :) Better to just roll the windows down in my opinion.

The electric can is just on/off via a temp switch on the top of the thermostat housing. I have a 40 amp circuit breaker in the mix also.

Yes, pulling the motor would have been better. I just didn't have my hoist setup at the time and things went from a small project to a bigger project as time went on.

Yes, the W55 is the gearbox which came in my truck originally (and most if not all 2WD pickups)... in my case, someone had swapped in a W58 at some point.

@@ray5961thank you. I’d like to find a back up and store for the future Or should I just do a rebuild if my goes?

@@helloitsmehb Gearbox video has a nice video on rebuilding the W58 - check that out. If you can find a W58 w/ cast iron center plate, that would be a nice backup to have. They are pretty stout inside, so usually not much of a rebuild it required.

Good point. These blocks are just the ones for moderately accurate work and/or for setup kinda work. For precision calibration stuff I have Mitutoyo Cera blocks, carbide and also I think one or two other nice quality (and almost never touched) iron sets. But yeah, I probably made them slightly less accurate with all the polishing :)

yeah, no good comes from the stretched timing chain stuff :)

I used a mount similar to this one here on ebay - www.ebay.com/itm/134845428310 - although mine was metal and this one appears to be 3D printed. The person I bought my mount from no longer seemed to be selling on ebay. Under the radio are VDO gauges. I have a video on the channel which details them here ruclips.net/video/epudL19cTk4/видео.htmlsi=KiBbj7q0ycwyxckh

I get around 18.5 to 20 MPG around town - depending on how hard I push the truck. On long highway drives, usually it's around 24 +/- 1 MPG - If there is no wind and level ground or slightly favorable incline, I can sometimes get up into the 27-28 MPG range as long a I keep it under 85 MPH.

I believe the better gas mileage claim has mostly to do with the fact that the exhaust fumes are largely inert in nature, therefore they displace some amount of air/fuel mixture that would otherwise be burnt. My understanding is that it also helps reduce cylinder temps a bit (since there is less combustion mixture taking place). How well it all works or how much it improves gas mileage is anyone's guess.

I love mine and use it every morning and several times per day to make espressos and cappuccinos. It's a very simple / manual machine and easy to understand. Boiler is small so heat up time is super fast. Steam wand is excellent - I flip it into steam mode and purge water out into a glass jar, then toggle in and out of steam mode again and steam half and half over here a lot. The entire machine is simple, basic and a dream to use. The upgrade to the 54mm portafilters really makes a huge difference. My machine likes dark roast beans mostly.

It's a factory Toyota wiring manual. You can find them on ebay usually. Search your model and year and "electrical manual". They usually have a silver cover.

Well, B+ ties into the ECU and a few other points, but basically think of it like a direct lead back to the +12 VDC on your battery. Instead of checking continuity on B+ what you really wanna do is confirm that you see 12 volts DC between B+ and the ground / chassis points when the ignition is switched to "ON". You'll see continuity across B+ because it's tied into the battery, the fuel injectors, etc. and some of those components (and the car battery itself) have copper and/or chemical pathways that meet - just like you'll see continuity across the light bulbs due to the filament inside them (unless they are LED's). What you're seeing sounds normal yeah. As long as you have +12 volts DC on B+ in the diagnostic box when the ignition key is ON, then that should be good.

@@ray5961 thanks for ur details, ur a good teacher.

@@forgetfulme1719 Thanks. Anytime!

lol haha still alive. Truck has a new oil pan :-)

It's hard to say, but make sure the engine is up to full operating temp for one thing (this will help ensure the IAC valve has fully closed). Also, when you do jump TE and E1 what base timing are you seeing on your timing light? It should be around 5 degrees BTDC when jumpered and then when you remove the jumper it should pop up to around 12 degrees approximately. I run mine at 7 degrees and when I pull the jumper I think it goes up to around 13 degrees or so. I run my idle at 850-900 RPM's usually.

Yeah, it doesn’t change at all Timing mark is on 12 degrees TPS is adjusted New timing chain New harmonic balancer and still the same

@@estuardoleiva5647 Sounds like you could have the camshaft off by 1 tooth perhaps. On the camshaft gear, it's 36 teeth, so each tooth is a 10 degree error. Who did the timing chain install?

My mechanic did the timing chain So you think the distributor is one tooth off ? Thankyou for your help buddy

@@estuardoleiva5647 It's easy to do accidentally if you aren't familiar w/ the 22RE and/or you don't work on them all that often. The alignment marks on the camshaft gear can be a little bit confusing at first. It is also easy to accidentally slip a link on the chain during installation (depending on how you do the job). Here's a video which shows a bit of information on alignment - ruclips.net/video/MnP3DcsUf7g/видео.html - try adjusting the distributor as far as it will go and see if you can get back to 5 degree initial timing when the Te an E1 are jumpered up.

Thank you for the suggestion... perhaps when I build up my 3RZ motor I will do a video like that for the channel

Thanks!

generally eBay is where you would find something like that.

That is just one of the great mysteries of the universe :) I'm not super familiar with the setup on the 86, but if you wanna send me some pics to the email address on the channel, I'm happy to take a look and see if I can make heads or tails out of anything. You're referring to the small 4mm hoses that connect off on the left side of the throttle body right? I have another video on my channel where I discuss the routing of all those hoses in more depth by the way.

@ray5961 I'm talking about on the top of throttle body there's 4 vac lines all the same size. A cluster of 3 then another one more towards radiator. I only have the cluster of 3

This video here gives a pretty good run down of what everything does - ruclips.net/video/rcKjFEYHk28/видео.htmlsi=PuAr1EBmNDWqj7VC - maybe your truck doesn't have an EVAP system on it? The 3 main lines on my truck are all related to the EGR system and the vacuum modulator. The 4th is to draw fumes out of the EVAP canister.

@ray5961 I uploaded a video with my problem please take a look when you have time

Running great. I'm swapping a new oil pan on right now actually.

@ray5961 Thank you for the great videos and for sharing your expertise.

@@Greenrosettas Thanks a lot! I appreciate it. Hopefully more videos coming soon.

Do you have a part # for the Fel Pro gasket you used specifically? I'm not a huge fan of their normal one, but I do like their PT version; it has some Kevlar and Telfon reinforcement which I like and it seems to be very nice quality from what I could tell. A lot of blown head gasket issues can be caused by block/head prep also. I had a Stone OEM head gasket but wasn't super impressed with it as compared to the Fel Pro PT one. As a rule, however, I'm with ya.. OEM gaskets are generally the way to go. Check out that Fel Pro PT gasket next time you're in an auto parts store and let me know what you think.

@ray5961 felpro is ok to use on a small block Chevy or Ford engine but never use em on Toyota, Honda, or Subaru Motors. I've been building motors since the 90s. Felpro used to be decent, but I wouldn't use them on anything nowadays.

I'm with ya on Japanese quality brother!

Thank you very much. I appreciate it! I'm gonna try to get back to posting here soon, now that the weather is improving.

The spark plug mod should be fine yes.

One day I'll come visit with an e-locker and see what's up haha :-)

@@ray5961 did you see where i posted on your other thread that I got Haltech in and running?

@@regularguy8592 No I don't think I saw that. RUclips sometimes deletes comments w/ links I think. How's she running? Any videos? Let me know the specifics, I'm interested to hear how it all came out over there!

@@ray5961 don't think it had links but anyway....went pretty good ,very close to plug and play but I did have Gabe from snp do a remote tune on it ,Still needs just a touch of fine tuning I thing and I only have ecu in at this time, Dash and pd16 is still on order but dash should be here any day now, Gabe from snp was really good help over the phone anytime I had questions

@@regularguy8592 That's awesome.

Thanks man! I'm running P225/65R17 tires (Kumho Crugen HT51 102T) and the wheels are Rays/Volk Racing Forged aluminum LE37K 17x7.5 ET +40mm at all four corners - running 8mm spacers front and rear w/ longer ARP wheel studs. Down the road I'm planning to install either a turbocharged 3RZ-FE motor or maybe a 1UZ-FE V8 - if/when that happens, I'll switch the rears to 17x.9.5 Volk wheels (most likely SE37's or something).

@@ray5961 Awesome - thank you for the detailed and thorough response. Be well, sir

Yes, I used RTV Ultra black sealant up in there. That's the main sealant I use on my motor. The grey stuff doesn't adhere as well as the Ultra Black. Here is the one I use here and where I usually buy it - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1U/ - nothing gets past this stuff. I use it to seal my oil pan also. Works fantastic. On the specific area you are talking about, I just put it on both sides of the part of the head gasket that is hanging out and make sure to push the RTV back into the corners with a tooth pick or something. Install the front cover and seal everything up and wipe away any RTV that squeezes out. I also use that along the bottom edge of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan. 12 to 24 hours and you should be good to go.

@@ray5961 Thank you so much. One last question, did you apply the RTV and cork gasket with your oil pan or just the RTV? Also, I took your advice and splurged on buying those Toyota Service Manuals on E-Bay. You have the best channel for this 22RE!!!!

@@damiandavies4632 Thanks! I appreciate that. I do not use the cork gasket stuff, no. I install the pan directly to the block with Ultra Black RTV sealant only. Put the pan on, lightly thread the bolts in, let the RTV set up for around 60 minutes, then do the final torque. That cork gasket will ruin your day; I never use it.

Yeah, you got it 100% right. They need to bump up against that bead for sure. I use a product now called Super 300 which helps seal the hose to the aluminum also (that works great).

Thank you man! Glad the video helped out a bit

With the upgrade to the 54mm baskets, it's a terrific machine for sure. I use it daily and it makes great espresso. With the stock portafilter and basket I couldn't really say, but I would think it would still perform fine. I love it for its simplicity. Once you get the hang of using this particular machine, it's fantastic. My machine (and I use a Kinu M47 grinder) works best with medium-dark to dark roast beans.

the coil and spark plug wires are two different kits - check the links in the description and you can see how it comes and where to get it. I like both myself.

Which wire are you referring to? The red one comes in that kit (see description for the link).

Thank you!

thanks man.. I'll look into that. I'm not super familiar with the A/C stuff but I'll check the manual and see if I can figure anything out

@ray5961 The way you went over the other diagram was so easy to understand the way you explained it 😀

@@jasonscruggs986 Thanks! I appreciate that.

Thanks brother!